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Like all urban rivers, the history of the Chao Phraya is
intertwined with the city it flows through. The original site
was chosen by early settlers because of its fertility and
abundant fish. Later King Taksin, after the fall of Ayutthaya to
the Burmese, located his new capital here, on the western banks
today known as Thonburi. In 1782 King Rama I, finding the
eastern banks more favourable, founded modern Bangkok and
celebrated the occasion by building some of the world's most
beguiling temples. Later still the canals it feeds became
famous, earning Bangkok its 'Venice of the East' epithet. And,
meanwhile, eminent Western authors like Maugham, Conrad and
Coward were singling out the Chao Phraya as one of their
favourite spots in the Far East.
The River of Kings’
Truly, the River of Kings - as King Rama I named it - is the
lifeblood of Bangkok. And not just because of this rich history.
Around 50,000 people still use its ferries to get to each day.
Slow barges bearing cargo coast upstream. Kids still frolic in
the russet-brown water. Wooden shacks, mottled by the elements,
still lurch over the water. Soaring hotels and condominiums hem
in solemn temples, churches and civic buildings that look 19th
century European, while yards away the odd wooden sampan sells
noodle soup or dried squid to hungry river workers. It is this
juxtaposition of calm and chaotic, modern and traditional,
religious and secular, ugly and sublime, foreign and indigenous
that makes the Chao Phraya so evocative.
River Boats and
Ferries Five public boat lines, all operated by the Chao
Phraya Express Boat company, ply the same 21km route: 'local
line', 'orange', 'yellow', 'blue' and 'green-yellow'. Operating
between 06:00 and 19:30 daily, each is identifiable by the
coloured flag hanging off its rear. The rush-hour only 'local
line' stops at all 34 piers, while the other four are express
lines stopping at only selected piers. Only the Orange Flag
Line, with its flat fee of 15 baht, runs all day and on weekends
– for most journeys this fits the bill. The others stop at
around 09:00 and begin again at around 16:00. Cross-river
ferries operate at most major piers and will drop you to the
other bank for 3.5 baht (see Chao Phraya Pier Guide for
details).
Tourist Boats' are another option, offering
unlimited trips to nine prominent piers for a 150 baht flat fee
(service hours: 09.30 - 15.00 daily). Not a bad deal if you plan
to do a lot of hopping on and off over one day, want more
comfort and the sites to be pointed out to you. Bear in mind
though – these run every 30 minutes while the public lines used
by locals typically run every 15 to 20 minutes. Other options
for exploring the river include hiring a long-tail boat (usually
includes trips down the city's canals), a river cruise or dinner
cruise. All give a different perspective on this fascinating
river.
Chao Phraya River Phra Arthit Road runs
parallel to the Chao Phraya River, stretching from Phra Sumen
fort to Thammasat Universty. Lined with quaint shop-houses, cosy
hole-in-the-wall restaurants, bars and cafés with live music,
this is where the artsy type convene after sundown before
hitting nearby Khao San Road. The nearest river pier is Phra
Arthit Pier. Thewet is scintillating. People come here to make
merit by releasing fish or to feed the school of frenzied
catfish scraps of bread. There's also a ramshackle yet
photogenic wet market, and the Royal enclave of Dusit nearby.
The nearest river pier is Thewet. Oriental, the old Westerner
Quarter with crumbling European architecture, antiques shops and
the venerable Mandarin Oriental Hotel, where some of the 20th
century's most eminent scribes once stayed. The nearest river
pier is Oriental. Pak Khlong Flower Market, a living breathing
oriental market teeming with life and colour, is one of the most
pleasant places to spend an early morning. Find fresh flowers of
all species, fruits and vegetables at wholesale price. The
nearest river pier is Rajinee. |
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